Clean water

On 9/22/06 I finally found my way out of town (not an easy task) through the rice patties on a brand new road towards a V between two ridges, where a the roofs of a small town are visible, and I could see on the map was a lake of some size. I also wanted to scout an approach to the big rock faces I can see from my office window. The road actually starts within 200 yards of my office and is immediately very much out of town. Xiwu is mostly situated East/West, this goes South. It's a new, modern concrete road that isn't completely open to traffic yet, it is probably raised 6' above the ground level of the rice patties. I stopped for a minute and studied the Chinese trowels they were using, much lighter than the ones Marshalltown made. As far as I can tell, there is one real road going in and out of the small town, so the trick to getting through is to look for indications of motor traffic on the concrete. There are small, progressively smaller roads everywhere, but they often dead end into a canal, a closed gate etc. I headed straight through town towards the lake hoping to get into the mountains. I stopped where the main road ended, at the base of the earth dam to see this wood carver. The boss wasn't there, but one of his apprentices was there the first time I cam through. You can see him sharpening the chain saw. The wood must have been some kind of sassafras, but there might have been some eucalyptus mixed in, my nose was confused.

I was really happy to see the very clean, clear lake spread out in front of me. Everyone I asked said their is no road in the long valley upstream from the lake and I didn't see any sign of agriculture, just swaying bamboos, but it looks like it would be a peaceful place to camp. I rode across the dam and then around a road that lead to some kind of small resort. There were a bunch of small SUV's parked outside, very much a fashion statement, there were no roads in the area that, though rough, I couldn't ride my beefed up road bike on. They had a muddy pond off the edge of the lake they were all fishing in. They had a tub with a particularly large goldfish, it barely fit in the tub (I've learned some carp is actually pretty good if they cook it right). Anyway, this goldfish was as bigger than my upper arm (actually not that big of an arm).

The roads are often lined by some kind of woven fence-like walls. It looks like they just use small bamboo and weave it in with the thick bamboo grove. I saw these next to trails that probably get one person every few days, so I'm not really sure what the purpose is, it doesn't look like a security measure. I stepped through the gate on this one into a new grove. These were the size of a typical cane pole we'd use in the U.S.

I found the most promising looking trail heading East up the valley hopefully to the peaks I was longing to climb. The trail was a few feet wide, but probably had never been touched by an ATV. It was a strange feeling being in a forest, a place that is usually very familiar but now not knowing what all but three plants were: bamboo, sassafras, and stinging nettles.

I eventually locked my bike to a tree in one of the aforementioned groves and took of in my sandals. Eventually the all of the trails I went up appeared to have been just created for land surveying. It looked like the cutting was just done to clear a line; I'm guessing for a general topographical survey of the area. I saw a few foreign objects hanging in small trees at what seemed like logical locations to turn, but never saw any pins. Basically, the trails were horrible. If a trail is really steep in Arkansas, it's usually been made for horses, or is a natural washout. These were neither, no horse could make it up these, and toppled, small trees blocked forward progress that was often basically a scramble. I took this photo looking down at the lake just before I decided to turn around.

On the way back to my bike I checked out this single-track trail that headed through waist deep grass into a bamboo grove (is it a grove, a stand or what?). These are really enchanting places. They sway in the wind and make a really nice sound (I've got to work on my adjectives). It's also usually very clear under them. These are not you cane pole sized bamboo trees. These are the kind they use for scaffolding on the sides of skyscrapers (literally). I'm not going to guess how tall they are, but they're much wider than my clown sized Teva's.

I walked up a small trail until I happed upon a small hut that I didn't dare get too close too. The place gave me a strange feeling, it was so peaceful, but unfamiliar, maybe I've just seen too many kungfu scenes were some dudes come swinging through the trees. It kind of reminded me of The House of the Flying Daggers (nice imagery).

I took my time a little more on the way back, I stopped at the wood carver's again. I was impressed by the quality of the work, and their carving tools, so while I played with their carving tools on a log from their pile they took turns on my bike all the while puffing away on their cigarettes. They all squatted around for a while marveling about the gears, thin tires, flicking the frame and passing it around to see how light it was. They often speak the local dialect that almost reminds me of Italian. I can't understand a word of it.

This stream serves as the towns’ refrigerator, cold bath tub, source for water etc. They stored trashcan sized bundles of what looked like celery in it, but I think it was from the plant I described earlier as looking like what I know to be the inedible elephant ear plant.

Here's the local beekeeper. A week later a scooter stopped next to me on the road and I was able to gather through his heavy local accent that he was wondering why I hadn't stopped by his store in town yet. It's definitely plan on it.

There is a strange compound of concrete, western styled houses, all surrounded by a tall concrete wall. It appears to be totally abandoned and was probably never inhabited. While the wall and strong gates exist, you don't really have to search for an open gate or opening in the wall. I'm curious to know the story. I was able to look down on it the next weekend. If there's any interest I'll post that photo too. Maybe it was intended to be some kind of resort....